The Chromatic circle

The Chromatic Circle:

The Chromatic circle of colours is a theory based on the mixture of colour substances.
For a Makeup Artist, the comprehension of this theory is KEY in order to create simple mixtures.
The better you understand this theory, the better the makeup artist you are.

The centre of this circle is composed of our three "primary colours". These are the purest of colours - pure because they have not gone through any mixes. Blue,  yellow and red. 
(I know i'm repeating myself here but bare with me, this is the important stuff)

Right outside the triangle of the three primary colours you will find the "secondary colours": green, orange and purple. These colours are the result of an equal mix of two primary colours.

Green, which is composed of the blue and the yellow.        
Purple, which is composed of the red and blue.                   
Orange, which is composed of the red and the yellow         

And finally outside the secondary colours of the circle, you will find the "tertiary colours" (yes tertiary is a word, i double checked.)

These colours are the direct result of the mix between (in equal parts again) of one primary colour and one secondary colour.

Turquoise:   mix of blue and green. 
Indigo:         mix of blue and purple.
Plum:           mix of red and purple.
Vermilion:   mix of red and orange.
Copper:       mix of yellow &  orange.
Lime green: mix of yellow and green.



Ok, one more category and then we're done! Phew.

The Complementary Colours:

In the Chromatic Circle the "complementary colours" are pairs of colours that are of opposite hue.
Because they oppose each other, once placed alongside one another,  the contrast will compliment the opposing colour - hence the name "complimentary colour".
Perfect example: the red Christmas ornament which will appear all the more red once placed on the green Christmas tree.

Here's the interesting part, we just said that when they're placed alongside one another they compliment each other but what happens when mixed together? Well guess what, they NEUTRALIZE each other.
Hairdressers (colour technicians rather) use this trick all the time. For example, if you're a red head and you want to go blonde, the colour technician will mix in a little dollop of concentrated green pigment into the hair colour in order to cut the red.

So how can you tell what is a colour's complimenting opposite?
Easy, you just use the logic behind the theory.

If you're thinking "what logic?" then i'm doing a terrible job of explaining - my bad.
(in which case i would suggest looking at the image of the Chromatic Circle to spot the opposing colour.

Here are some examples that will hopefully make it more clear.

Take our secondary colours for instance:
Green is composed of blue and yellow so the colour that hasn't entered its composition is red, therefore making red its complimentary colour.
Purple is composed of blue and red and the colour not engaged in its composition is yellow, thus making yellow its complimentary colour.
Orange, being composed of red and yellow, having blue play no part in its composition, makes blue its complimentary colour.

Capisci? ;)

So knowing what we know, the following will now make total sense.
As a Makeup artist you will obviously come across faces with imperfections.
How will we correct them? By determining the colour of the imperfection and using its complimentary colour to neutralize it.
(How refreshing to actual learn something you will apply in real life @ all the b.s. classes i had to take along the years)

Red pimple/scar: green corrector
Blue circles under the eyes: peachy or orangish corrector
Purple circle under the eyes: yellow or golden corrector ...umm isn't a purple circle a black eye? :s :/
Green circle under they eyes: peachy or pinkish corrector.

Now, how do we highlight a colour. Comment le mettre en valeur?

Blue eyes   :golden or orangish eye shadow hues.
Green eyes : pinkish or mauve eye shadow hues.
Brown eyes: turquoise or blueish eyeshadow hues.

Now that we have the knowledge, it is essential to mix our own colours in order to adapt to each client. Don't forget - the client's hair colour, skin tone, outfit and even personal preference will also influence the choices you make as an artist. So don't be shy, it's your canvas.


Tomorrow i will cover the warm colours vs. the cold colours. Can't wait :/


Blog to you soon,

Sahar